Reader question: The intricacies of Korean skincare
Thursday, July 5, 2012 at 3:23PM Hi Miss Liz! I've been using Korean products for a while now. I stick to my cleanse-tone-moisturize routine. But every time I go into their stores, I get confused from the items in one skin care line. Can you differentiate and list the order how asian skin care goes? I've heard that there are routines that have up to 12 different products. So from 1. Cleanser (facial wash/cleansing oil); 2. Toner; 3. Moisturizer; which should I apply next: essence, emulsion, cream, serum? Also is there a difference if it's labeled 'lotion' instead of moisturizer?
This baffles me a lot. I thank you in advance :) - Patsy
Photo via Timeless Confection
Hi Patsy! Thanks for your question. I was also a bit confused initially, but as a general rule you can swatch the product first and then guess from there. If it foams, it's for washing. If it's watery, it's a toner. If it's a cream or gel in a normal-sized container, it's a moisturizer. If it's in a smaller bottle and gel-like and/or oily with a dense texture, it's an essence or serum.
The cleanse-tone-moisturize routine is basic, but the Asian skincare routine is a lot more thorough! Apparently there are five basic steps which are:
1. Double-cleansing. This involves using an emulsifying cleanser such as an oily or watery makeup remover like the Shu Uemura Cleansing Oil to remove your makeup first. Afterwards, you use a foaming wash to clean the face of all impurities.
2. Facial massage and mask. You massage your face to get the circulation going then wear a mask for the prescribed period (anytime from 10 to 15 minutes). Face masks are useful to softening up skin in a jiffy and for minimizing the appearance of pores.
Face mask
3. Toner. Some Korean brands use the word "lotion" for toner (even Clinique, for that matter). Toners are an extra cleansing step to rid your skin of any remaining oil or makeup.
4. Essence or serum. Serums are meant to improve the absorption of your moisturizer, and they are full of benefits as well. They're usually a more concentrated form of skincare for certain concerns.
5. Moisturizer. Finally! They're usually in cream or gel form. Use a cream one if you have dry and flaky skin; gel for oily and acne-prone skin.
So yeah, whoa. To be honest I don't get this concept of treating our skin like the enemy, as if it were some unruly child that has to be beaten to submission. Believe it or not, I advise everyone to use only EXACTLY what their skin needs, and only when it is needed. A full line of skincare or a prescribed step-by-step routine rarely works perfectly for anyone because each of us has needs unique to our genetic makeup.
Some people may need all these steps to cleanse their skin (although how their skin could be that dirty to need them, I can't imagine) while some people don't need anything more than warm water. It depends. So if your skin looks good just with a core skincare routine, just stick to it and don't take the chance of messing it up. ;)
Reader Comments (14)
What you eat also affects how your skin looks. You can follow a 10-step routine but if you don't drink the right amount of water and you don't take care of your body, it will show on your skin. So yeah, I think it's more important to get enough sleep, avoid stress when you can, and eat well than pay a lot of attention to things that only go on the surface.
agree. the more i fiddle with my skin (unnecessary products or even just exfoliating too much), the more likely it'll break out. :p i find that i can never get enough moisturizer though. i'm super happy with Olay; even the hundred peso cheapo type works like a charm,
and, i also agree that skincare is as much about lifestyle as it is products. drinking lots of liquids keeps skin well-hydrated and less prone to wrinkles. my vegetarian friend has the best skin i know and it's not because she's also a makeup artist. i personally don't believe in getting rid of meat entirely but a diet rich in fruits and veggies helps ensure that you get plenty of antioxidants and vitamins. better to have it IN your body than just ON your face, i think. :)
Hi Ms Liz,
Helpful post! It also depends if you're putting medication/treatment on your face then that's the time when skin care routine may take a few more steps. :) But yes usually it's double-cleanse, exfoliate/mask, tone, serum, moisturize.
ms liz, may i know what lipstick shade you are using in your photos
in this post: HOW TO ENHANCE YOUR NATURALLY FAIR SKIN
(PLUS GET A CHANCE TO WIN A SHOPPING SPREE FROM PALMOLIVE!)
Im trying to find a shade like that in the etude house store since im guessing its an etude lippie
but with so many choices and shades, naduling na ako kakahanap ng ka-match nya.
thank you!!!
Thanks Aviva, Isea, and Joanna for sharing your tips! As usual they are super helpful. :D
Hey Agnes! That's not Etude House haha! It's this lipstick - http://www.projectvanity.com/projectvanity/2011/3/30/colour-collection-color-intense-lipsticks.html
The Tea Rose one. One of my best lipsticks. ;) Etude House makes a nice hot pink (it's Dear My Blooming Lips in Breathless Pink - it's just a number at the bottom, sorry, but you can find it na from that line) but it's a true pink, while Tea Rose has sophisticated undertones of lavender. Parang MAC Pink Noveau.
I agree with all the comments. You can apply all cosmetics claiming to improve your face or skin, cheap or expensive but you have to take into consideration that beauty should start from within. Eating a balanced meal and lots of liquid intake is I think the first step.
Thank you Ms. Liz for suggesting to your readers to stick to skin care routine that works for them without asking them to buy this or that.
Hi Liz, for oily skin gals which is better serum or essence? :)
thank you ms liz for answering my question! will check those lipsticks out!
your make-up in that particular post made you super fresh, young and very very pretty!
Thank you for answering my question so quickly Ms Liz. This really helps, especially the part about identifying which is which. Thank you thank you!! :)
I too, am confused by the many skin care steps advised by Koreans, I've been dying to try them out,even just the facial wash but so many things are holding me back. First, one make up artist already told me that Korean skincare products and make ups are not very suitable for Filipino skin because of the difference in climate. Next, I consulted a derma and she also told me to try to stick to either European, American or Japanese skin care products as they have the highest FDA requirements, ergo the safest. She also told me that less is more when it comes to skin care, that I don't need to go on putting so many things in my face because in the end, these same products actually "pollutes" my skin. I keep on arguing that Koreans have very beautiful skin but she counter attacks me and says that their weather is a great contributor for that feat. How can I argue with a derma, haha!
So Liz, my question is, are Korean products really oily or not suitable for Pinay skin? Thanks in advance :)
Koreans having beautiful skin is a myth. Honestly, maputi lang sila. A lot of Koreans live near our place to study english. I would NOT want to have their skin LOL iilan lang yung makinis, a lot of them have large pimples and open pores. Siguro one advantage is their skin isn't as pigmented as ours, so they don't scar, plus di masyado halata ang whiteheads sa mga mapuputi.
@Joyce: So true! I think we were misled into thinking that Koreans, in general, have great skin because we often see Korean artists on TV. But they're actors and performers, so they really got to have great skin! I've seen many Koreans up close when I was still in college, and yeah, they're really just like us--some of them have good skin, while some are just full of cystic acne.
I definitely agree with what you said, the five-step routine won't work perfectly for every one. Some ladies might even find it too tedious to do all this. As for me, I've never tried using serums. I want to try one like a vitamin c serum of some sort to even out my skin tone but I still don't know which ones to pick...LOL
Hi liz! I've been trying to find a suitable bb cream suitable for my oily skin. The thing is, when I use bb cream, it doesn't stay for a long time, which I would really appreciate if my next purchase would do the job. I don't have major problems with acnes or scars. I just want to achieve a healthy-looking (a little dewy but can hold up the oiliness) and light bb cream. I got a little interested in mousse bb creams but I cannot attest to its effectiveness.
I saw this Nature Republic Photoshot 3D bb mousse but I haven't found any reliable reviews as to it's effectiveness for those with oily skin. Any thoughts on this matter? Thanks and God bless! :)