The Derma Corner: How to find out your skin type, according to a dermatologist

Do you know what your skin type is? It’s a key piece of information that will have you choose the right products for you. It will help you avoid common mistakes I’ve seen in my practice, when some of my patients admit to buying/using popularized and hyped-up products that messed up their skin. These can cause or trigger breakouts, infections, contact dermatitis or flares of skin diseases. Remember: what can work for someone may not work for you! Even we have the same skin type, our skin reacts to certain ingredients differently.

The easiest way to determine your skin type is by washing your face and observing your skin within the day. Here then are the five different skin types!

OILY SKIN

Oily skin has noticeably larger pores. It looks and feels oilier during the middle of the day. Within minutes after washing the face, it quickly gets oily. There is increased production of sebum by the oil glands, making them prone to comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) and breakouts.

Overexfoliating or overwashing will cause the glands to produce more oil than usual as a way of putting the moisture back that was stripped off the skin. A prevalent skincare myth with regards to this skin type is that they don’t need a moisturizer but honestly, even oily skin types need to moisturize. The right kind of moisturizer may lessen the oiliness of the skin and is usually in the form of lightweight gels.

When it comes to skincare ingredients, oily skin types will benefit the most from AHAs and BHAs like glycolic acid and salicylic acid, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, kaolin clay and retinol.

DRY SKIN

Someone with dry skin will have dry and flaky patches on the face, a dull-looking complexion and areas that have a rough texture. Dry skin will feel tight after washing because it has less oil glands.

Due to this structural difference, dry skin types would need a creamy and thick moisturizer to give the skin the moisture it needs. But just like oily skin, over-washing or over-exfoliating can cause problems and make skin drier and cause irritation. Some suitable skincare ingredients for this skin type are ceramides, shea butter, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, lactic acid, jojoba oil and lanolin. 

COMBINATION SKIN

Combination skin types can be confusing at first if you’re not aware you have it because it involves the needs of two different skin types. They would have large pores and an oily T-zone but have flaky, rough areas elsewhere like the forehead, cheeks and jawline. The best way to deal with this skin type is to view it as two separate skins, one having an oily skin and the other dry. In terms of skincare, dry areas need to be moisturized with a heavier cream while the oily areas need thin and non-greasy products.

SENSITIVE SKIN

If you have a sensitive skin type, your skin is prone to irritation and inflammation when you encounter certain ingredients. A variety of reactions can occur in response to them; there can be burning, itching, stinging, redness, a tight feeling, or sudden increase in breakouts after using the product.

When the skin becomes irritated, the skin barrier is disrupted and the oil glands become more active, causing acne. There are also conditions that make the skin prone to sensitivity like eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, etc.

The usual suspects of irritating ingredients are alcohol, fragrance, essential oils and exfoliants. The list doesn’t end there though, because irritants can differ from one person to another. The skin can have different reactions to the same irritant and the severity may differ for two people with the same skin type.

As a precautionary measure, skincare routines should be kept to a few steps only to avoid overwhelming the skin. I advise doing a patch test with any new skincare or product if possible and carefully observing for any reactions while using them. Look for ingredients in products that support a healthy skin barrier like ceramides, fatty acids, sunflower oil, humectants like hyaluronic acid and glycerin, and niacinamide.

NORMAL SKIN

Normal skin types are the easiest to deal with as a dermatologist but to tell you the truth, I have only met a handful of people with this skin type. Their skin are more resilient compared to the others and they can wash their faces with any cleanser or just water. They don’t become oily within the day except when it’s too hot or humid, and when they do, it’s only minimal and not the same as oily skin. They don’t need a creamy moisturizer for hydration too, not unless it’s winter or the weather gets too cold and dry. Their skin isn’t prone to any sensitivity and generally have a healthy oil and water balance. 

Now that I’ve briefly discussed the different skin types, which one do you have? Do remember too that skin types can change over time and may be affected by the climate, weather, environment, or by stress, hormones and diet. Make sure you always listen to your skin for any changes so you’ll be able to apply the right products for your skin type at the moment. 

Until my next article guys, stay safe!

Dr. Nikki Paderna is currently available for online consultations thru the HealthNow and Medifi app on Google Play for Android devices and on the Apple store for iOS devices, or thru the FB page, Vivestrata Dermatology Clinic